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【提要】在日常生活里，不同地区、不同民族或国家的人们的家庭餐桌上摆放的饭菜不会完全相同。一个原因，是每个地方地理、自然环境形成的食品原材料的体系不同。另一个原因，则是不同地区人们信仰、生活习惯和对食物的文化性认识不同，于是构成了具有浓厚民族性、地域性、或国家与宗教特色的食物象征性特点。列举中日相互类似的文化表象的文章不胜枚举，对饮食文化的研究、记述也早有很多先学的优秀文章问世。基于史学角度的记述也有大量问世之着。本文对中日两个文化在正月食品方面的象征性研究，则主要采用民俗学和人类学的方法。通过笔者实地调查得到的二十世纪八十、九十年代和二十一世纪初期的人们生活中的事例，分析汉族（本论文以北方地区为主要对象）在正月这样一个特定的时间和环境里食用某些特定食物的意义所在，然后对比分析日本的正月食品，最终探讨自然环境和民族文化如何赋予节日食物以各种文化的特性，以及形成这种特性的民族文化的深层心理。
关键词：正月；食品；汉族；中日；民俗研究
作者：何彬，日本首都大学东京「都市教养学部人文社会系」教授。
国立成功大学中文系，《成大中文学报》第十八期，2007年10月页177-196。
Symbolic Meanings of the Food in the First Lunar Month between China and
Japan
He Bin
Professor, School of Humanities and Social Sciences
Tokyo Metropolitan University
Abstract
In daily life, the food on the table in the families varies in different regions, nationalities and countries. For one thing, the system of food raw materials produced in different geographical and natural environments differs, and for another, the belief, the habits and customs and the cultural cognition of the people in different regions vary, which has formed the symbolic characteristics of the food that is featured by rich country’s traits, regionality or national and religious characters. The articles that enumerate the similar cultural representation mutually between China and Japan are more than it can be listed; the articles on the research and account of dietary culture by so many former scholars have been presented to the public. Since a great number of descriptions based on historiography have come out, this thesis, through the research on the symbolization of the food in the first lunar month both in China and Japan, mainly applies the methods of ethnography and anthropology. Based on the cases in 1990’s and in the early period of 21st century gained by field work, the author analyses what it means that the Han nationality (mainly in the northern areas) eat some special food in the special time and environment of the first lunar month, then analyses comparatively the food in the first lunar month in Japan. Ultimately, the author probes into how the natural environment and national culture endue festival food with various cultural characteristics and the deep psychology of national culture that forms this kind of characteristic.
Keywords: the first lunar month, food, Han Nationality, China and Japan, folk custom research
本文原载于《成大中文学报》（台湾），第十八期，页177-196，2007年10月。
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