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维吾尔族服饰文化研究

On the Uyghur Dressings Culture

【作者】艾山江·阿不力孜 【导师】阿布都克里木·热合满

【作者基本信息】新疆大学，中国少数民族语言文学，2004年，博士


【摘要 (中文/英文)】 维吾尔服饰以其自身的多元性和独特性在很大程度上来说反映着维吾尔人的宗教信仰，人生观点和道德标准。维吾尔服饰又作为一种文化现象，它的创造和穿戴贯穿于维吾尔文化的整个发展历程，必然会折射出维吾尔文化所包含的深层意蕴。 本人在论文中以历史唯物主义和辩证唯物主义为主要方法论，运用历史研究法、田野调查法与文献资料相结合的研究思路，从相关学科交叉的角度对维吾尔服饰文化进行了追根溯源式的全面的较为系统的研究。 本论文以四章、十一节和结语为内容结构，对维吾尔服饰文化进行了全面地阐述。 绪论部分介绍本文课题的提出理由和研究意义，确立本文的研究对象和范围以及国内外学者对维吾尔服饰文化研究的概况等问题。 第一章，从历史和生产方式的角度审视了维吾尔服饰文化形成的诸多因素。其中自然地理环境作为维吾尔服饰文化形成的根本因素，其影响力首先从维吾尔人所居住的以沙漠绿洲环境为主，草原和高山为辅的地理环境为出发点，结合气候和物产条件对服饰的影响进行了阐述。第二节，从历史演变的角度，主要叙述了构成维吾尔服饰文化的多元民族因素，从而初步的确立维吾尔传统服饰与丝绸之路各民族服饰之间的渊源关系。第三节，从自然崇拜、萨满教、摩尼教...更多、佛教以及伊斯兰教观念对服饰文化所起到的影响角度，结合相关的研究资料，解释了不同宗教及其演变对维吾尔服饰文化的影响等问题。 第二章，将注意力转移到维吾尔服饰本身，从其类型或外部入手，解析维吾尔族服饰在质料、款式和色彩结构上的特点，从而理清维吾尔服饰总体样式的几点特征。第一节，依据民俗学和服饰民俗学的理论原理，对维吾尔族服饰做了尝试性的分类。第二节，较为详细的阐述了维吾尔族传统服饰类别及其款式特征。第三节，以实际调查和文献资料相结合为依据，阐述了维吾尔服饰材料及其在服饰制造过程当中的实用特点。第四节，以维吾尔服饰色彩结构为切入点，论述了维吾尔服饰色彩的总体特征和从中表现出的文化意蕴。 在第三章的第一节，从文化学、美学及宗教学角度对维吾尔服饰图纹之基本单位进行剖析，找出隐藏在基本图纹背后的文化符号和象征意义。第二节，以维吾尔传统男式佩饰为主，对一些代表性的传统佩饰所蕴藏的文化含义进行阐述。第三节，从实际的调查和文献的记载所获得的有关维吾尔传统服饰的传说进行大体的分类，简要的论述其中的一些代表性传说所蕴藏的深刻含义。 第四章是本文的重点。第一节，以实际调查材料为依据，从行业惯制的角度，简述裁缝业在维吾尔族传统工艺行业当中的重要地位。而在第二节，将注意力放在独具特色的维吾尔传统工艺经书《裁缝经》和《鞋匠经》上，以实际调查中所收集的两部经书不同地区的版本为研究对象进行论述。从具体的内容上来看，以有关行业由来的宗教传说、有关推崇行业神圣性的宗教传说、有关行业庇护的宗师或祖师、有关行业专业人员必尽的义务以及有关服饰制造过程中所念的咒语等方面进行解析。第三节，以田野调查资料为主要依据，文献和研究资料兼顾，解析有关维吾尔人生仪礼服俗与服俗禁忌等方面的问题。首先从婴儿期服饰、成年礼服饰、定情服饰、婚礼服饰以及丧葬服饰等人生不同阶段时期的服饰穿戴习俗加以论析，初步的确定维吾尔人生仪礼服饰的总体概貌。之后，再从服饰色彩、材料、款式、穿戴、洗净和存放等诸多方面所表现出的服俗禁忌进行论述。第四节，以维吾尔熟语为出发点和切入点，找出熟语中有关表现服饰穿戴和制造的典例，对此进行分类，并在此基础上提出从熟语中所表现出的维吾尔服饰文化质点，从而进一步的确定服饰与语言之间不可分割的联系。 最后以实际调查为依据，结合本人的亲身感受，解说维吾尔传统服饰的现代性转型问题，并以此作为论文结语的内容。

Uighur dressings and its multi-cultural and unique characteristics reflect the religious beliefs, world views and ethical principles of Uighur people to a great degree. As a cultural phenomenon, the invention and descending of it has covered all the developmental processes of Uighur culture and it shows profoundness of Uighur culture as well. In this thesis, we take this topic as a target of study, try to discuss the following points: In this thesis the author tries to open up the origin of the Uighur dressing culture combining the field investigation method with historical documents and principles of historical materialism and dialectical materialism at the meeting point of several different sciences. This thesis is comprised of four chapters and 11 subsections, discusses all the aspects of Uighur dressing traditions. In the section of foreword, the reason of study, theoretical significance and overall picture of former studies of this topic by the scholars home and abroad will be talked and the object and purpose of study will be settled. In the first chapter , the various factors which has formed Uighur dressing culture will be discussed from the respect of historical background and the influences of geographical location, national immigration, religious changes, etc. in the first subsection, the geographical condition will be taken as major factor of influencing dressing culture in other words, the fact that oasis is the key factor and mountainous and grassland are the secondary factors influenced Uighur dressing culture will be put forward. In the second subsection, the multi-ethnical characteristics of Uihgur dressing culture and its deep relations with the old silk road culture will be discussed from the angle of historical changes and co-existence. In the third subsection, the influence of different religions in the uighur dressing culture will be discussed through the points of Animism, Shamanism, Manihism, Buddhism and Islam and their impacts on Uighur dressings. In the second chapter, the attention will be focused on the Uyghur dressings itself, and the characteristics of quality and materials, styles, colors will be closely analyzed from the respect of dressing types. In the first subsection, the author tries to make a tentative classification over the Uighur dressings using principles of folklore and dressing folklore. In the second subsection, the types and styles of Uighur dressings will be discussed in detail. In the third subsection, the practicality of Uighur clothing materials will be talked combining practical investigation with historical documents. In the forth subsection, the characteristics of colors of Uihgur dressings and their cultural meanings will be closely analyzed. In the third chapter, firstly, the pictures or graphs and principles of Uighur dressings will be scrutinized from the respect of cultural anthropology, esthetics and religion, and through this, the hidden symbolic meanings among the dressings will be presented. In the second subsection, the symbolic meanings of some traditional baldrics will be discussed. In the third subsection, some of the typical legends related to dressings will be classified as a whole and their cultural meanings will be discussed. In the fourth chapter is the paramount part of the thesis. In the first subsection, the importance of dressmaking among the Uihgur art and craftsmanship will be established depending on the practical investigation. In the second subsection, the attention will be focused on the Book of Dressmakers and the Book of Shoemakers, and the different versions of these books will be the focus of analyzing. The religious tales that about the origin of the vocation , the religious tales canonizing the vocation, the tales about sheltering great masters, the obligations of the careermen and the incantations which they use during the process of making dresses will be closely discussed. In the third subsection, the Uihgur ceremonial costumes and the taboos related to dressings will be discussed depending on field investigati

【关键词 (中文/英文)】 维吾尔服饰文化; 文化层次; 文化生态; 多元性 Uighur dressings culture; culture background ; culture ecology; culture entironment.

【发表年期】2004年04期 【网络出版投稿人】新疆大学 【DOI】CNKI:CDMD:1.2004.118343